[TPIN] BACH 37

Richard S. Meyer rsm2 at only.arl.psu.edu
Tue Sep 19 14:33:36 CDT 2006


I think it's more likely that the valve doesn't stay in the "down"
position for more than an instant unless it's being played. That's
possibly why the problem seems to correlate with the horn being played. 

If something is out of alignment, more than a second or two in the down
position will give the oil film a chance to break down and cause
metal-to-metal contact. Thus, with only the spring force to return the
valve, it may stick.

Richard

-----Original Message-----
From: tpin-bounces at tpin.okcu.edu [mailto:tpin-bounces at tpin.okcu.edu] On
Behalf Of Kellogg, Steve
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 3:56 PM
To: Bill Cryderman; Tptgirl at aol.com; tpin at tpin.okcu.edu
Subject: RE: [TPIN] BACH 37



I don't know why this would only happen when you are blowing air through
the horn unless it was temperature related and binding as your horn
warms up. Things expand as they heat up. I had problems with my valves
until I changed the valve guides and that seemed to do the trick. Try
swapping the valve guides between one of your good valves and the bad
valve and see if the problem follows. If it does...that's your problem.
Another thing could be if your 3rd valve stem is bent and binding in the
valve cap. Look real close to see if the gap between the opening in your
valve cap and the valve stem seems to close up as you press your valve
down about 1/2 way on your 3rd valve. How about the valve springs? Are
they strong enough to bring the valve back up or are they worn out? You
can diagnose a lot of things by swapping parts between your bad valve
and one of the good valves and seeing if the problem follows. Do it one
component at a time to see if you can isolate the problem. If it's a
combination of problems, things get more complicated. Then again maybe
you tried all of this and I should just shut up...So I will.

Stephen Kellogg 




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